Last Updated on April 7, 2021

Day 0: September 27 – Kathgodam to Lohajung

I have always loved the first step I take at Kathgodam station. More than the love for the place, per se, it was about the excitement of hitting the gateway to the magnificent Kumaon Himalayas. The drive further, wherever it led to – Nainital, Almora, Binsar, Muktheshwar, Munisiyari, Kausani, Chaukori…the list could go on – was always the stuff that sublime holidays stand for. This time it was from Kathgodam to Lohajung, and this one, we knew, would be another one of those!

Most high altitude treks start with trepidation more than preparation, budgeting, finding the right operator and, no less, getting the right group of co-trekkers. Ours too was no different. The question we asked ourselves was not long and was a hard hitting two words? Could we?

Read more: All you need to know about the Roopkund lake trek.

But such is the lure of a trek like Roopkund that the answer is usually a conclusive Yes!!! And then the flurry of activity begins. We tossed a well-researched coin in and decided to go with Trek the Himalayas, a Delhi based adventure, and outdoor company.

Collage of

For three full months, the treadmill, the stairs, the open road and a lean diet was what we thought we should be doing. Which, of course, we did not always! But come midnight of 26th September 2014, as we waited in the dirty, dingy platform of Old Delhi railway station for the Ranikhet Express, we were a much fitter pack than we were when we drooled over the snaps of the Roopkund Lake we saw on the internet months back.

Scenes outside Kathgodam railway station
Outside the Kathgodam railway station

The next morning, finding our Sumos at Kathgodam railway station was easy  – they came tagged.

A hilly road on the way from Kathgodam to Lohajung
Somewhere on the hilly roads on the way from Kathgodam to Lohajung

The drive from Kathgodam to Lohajung

The 222 km drive up from Kathgodam to Lohajung, our base camp was gradually ensconcing the traveller into a world of mountains and high altitude. As our vehicles sped past the still waters of Bhimtal and the sleeping town of Bhowali, the day was still filtering through the thick blanketed early morning mist.

A heavy breakfast, bouts of vomiting and doses of Avomine later, our road-worn Sumos passed the small hill towns of Someshwar, Kausani, Baijnath, Gwaldham, and Dewal before swinging into the little base town of Lohajung.

Trek the Himalayas base camp building at Lohajung
Trek the Himalayas base camp at Lohajung

Base Camp @ 7575 ft

At this stage, we felt light and our backpacks lighter. As we stood on the terrace of the Patwal Tourist Lodge & Holiday Home, TTH’s Lohajung Base Camp, there were stars in our eyes and a few in the dark but clear skies above us. Before us, the snow-clad peaks of Nanda Ghunti glistened like a large and friendly apparition, beckoning us. We had dumped our bags inside the small rooms and an extra layer of woolens was as comforting as the dinner spread the TTH team had laid out for us.

Poster showing altitude of the Lohajung base camp at 7575 feet
Lohajung base camp @ 7575 ft

But first, the rites of passage. The larger group of 26 had all regrouped on the verandah and stood to chatter and to rub their hands, more from the chill than just glee. And then the TTH team manager welcomed us and got each of us to introduce ourselves, talk a little about the previous treks we had done, if any, and then laid out the ground rules for the trek. Dinner over, we wriggled into our quilts and made peace with our new environment and the next week’s plans were as much a part of that night’s dreams as were the glimpses of the day’s journey till the base camp.

Kumaon mountains and valley on the way from Kathgodam to Lohajung
Kumaon mountains on the way from Kathgodam to Lohajung

Tomorrow, the trek begins. Up there, where the earth and the sky meet lies Roopkund Lake – amidst snow and scattered pieces of skeletons. Today – tonight – we knew we would sleep tight…and tomorrow would be the beginning of a new and exciting adventure…a great one!

To know what happened – go to Day 1.

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10 Comments

  1. Nice write up. Did you trek with your friends or you went alone?
    Looking forward for next post – lohajung to didina!

  2. Love the way your have described your experience, Malini. By the time this series ends, seems like I would be at Kathgodam station in search of a sumo to Loharjung. 😉

  3. Love the way you have described your experience, Malini. By the time this series ends, seems like I would be at Kathgodam station in search of a sumo to Loharjung. 😉

  4. What an amazing day in an amazing place! Thank you for sharing 😊

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