Last Updated on May 21, 2021

From Banteay Samre, a short drive took us to the mountain temple of East Mebon. It sits in the midst of an artificial reservoir – East Baray – built to provide water to the city. From a distance we could make out that East Mebon was a large temple, rising to three levels and crowned by five towers on the top.

East Mebon and the five towers
East Mebon and the five towers

However, the East Baray reservoir is dried up now; remnants of the laterite landing platforms that were used for boats to deck were found on all the four sides outside the outer enclosure.

Remnants of the laterite landing platforms
Remnants of the laterite landing platforms

Elephants of East Mebon

Another striking feature of this temple was the large elephants standing at each corner of the platforms on two levels – there were eight elephants altogether. These 2-m high free-standing elephants were carved from single blocks of stone.

Guardian elephants stand guard at East Mebon
Guardian elephants stand guard at East Mebon

We could make out the chains carved onto the elephant’s body. There were a few guardian lions as well.

Guardian lions as well....
Guardian lions as well….

Mountain temple dedicated to Shiva

There were stairways on all four sides leading up to the second and third platforms. The East Mebon temple complex is dedicated to Lord Shiva and had the usual shrines, carvings on the walls, and towers. 

East-facing doors
East-facing doors

As in most of the Angkor temples, the towers had a real door to the east, while there were false doors on the other three directions. The central tower contained a sanctuary chamber that enshrined a linga. The lintels on the towers showed various depictions but not as vivid as the many other temples we had visited.

Towers at East Mebon

The central tower had a depiction of Indra riding on the three-headed elephant Airavata with horsemen emerging from a garland.

Indra riding on the three-headed elephant Airavata
Indra riding on the three-headed elephant Airavata

Some of the carvings looked incomplete or only lightly chiseled into the brick. It was as if only the base of the figures were carved and the highly detailed plasterwork was yet to be done. There were many small circular holes on the brick walls, intended as an aid to binding the stucco to the brick.

Holes chiseled onto the walls
Holes chiseled onto the walls

As we climbed down the steps towards our next destination, we could not help but let our minds into imagining how beautiful the temple must have looked at its prime. As the beautiful Khmer ladies and gents embarked from their boats, the sun must have created a magical streak of glitter on the waters.

For the time being I had to create my own magic with a rock elephant before moving onto our next destination, Ta Som.

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